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SANTA EULÀLIA: BARCELONA’S COURAGEOUS 13-YEAR-OLD HEROINE

Patron saints are a concept that I’ve always found interesting. Many of the most famous patron saints happen to be men. In Barcelona’s case, it’s not a patron but a patroness. What’s more, there isn’t just one but two: Mare de Déu de la Mercè and Santa Eulàlia. This makes each a co-patroness. How many places do you know of that can claim that?

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Font de Santa Eulàlia in the Raval neighborhood

Since Barcelona is getting ready to celebrate its Festes de Santa Eulàlia this weekend, we want to focus on her story.

Shrouded in doubt, Santa Eulàlia of Barcelona was born in Sarrià in A.D. 290; history buffs can’t prove for certain that Eulàlia was ever in Barcelona, citing that there is more evidence to support the existence of Santa Eulàlia de Mérida, whose story is identical and predates that of Santa Eulàlia of Barcelona.

We’re not here to make any sort of claim on whether she ever was or wasn’t here at one time. It could be that the city borrowed the story from Mérida and tailored it to fit its needs. It doesn’t really matter, whatever the case may be, because Barcelona has embraced her and honored her in numerous ways. One of which is her festival that takes place over a four or five-day period around February 12, the day she died.

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Santa Eulàlia

The story goes that Eulàlia, having grown up in a Christian family in Sarrià, came upon her 13th birthday in A.D. 303 when the city was under the Roman rule of Dacian, who was enforcing the edicts of Emperor Diocletian. The edicts rescinded Christians’ legal rights and demanded that they comply with traditional religious practices. There had always been discrimination against Christianity in the Roman empire before, but the edicts took that discrimination a step further.

Eulàlia, who was none too happy about the treatment Christians were receiving in Barcelona, decided to confront Dacian and express her discontent. Dacian didn’t appreciate this show of defiance. Upon hearing her complaints, he had her arrested. What was her punishment? Dacian sentenced her to suffer 13 tortures for her 13 years of age.

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Santa Eulàlia from behind, holding the X-shaped cross

Each of the 13 was either excruciatingly painful and/or unimaginably horrifying. First, she was imprisoned in a dark cell that never saw the light of day. She was then whipped and later had her skin peeled away by hooks. Next, they made her stand in a burning fire and then burned her breasts. Now that her body was covered in wounds, rough stones were used to rub into them. You’d think that would be enough, but then they also sprinkled burning oil and then molten lead on her. After that, she was thrown into a pit of quicklime. One of the most infamous tortures came next. They stripped her naked, put her inside of a barrel full of broken glass, nails and sharp rocks, and rolled her down a downhill street: the Baixada de Santa Eulàlia. Afterwards, they enclosed her in a pen full of flea-ridden livestock.

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Baixada de Santa Eulàlia

Baixada de Santa Eulàlia3

Baixada de Santa Eulàlia

Although she was now completely beat up, Eulàlia’s spirit still hadn’t been broken. Therefore, they decided it was time to embarrass her. Still naked, they paraded her through the streets of Barcelona on an ox-driven cart. The heavens, it’s said, wouldn’t allow such shame to fall on her. Thus, it began to snow. Eulàlia’s body was covered in a beautiful coat of white snowflakes and no longer exposed. Not only that, but she was then, guided by an angel, able to escape.

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One of the Latin inscriptions below the statue of Santa Eulàlia in Raval

That got the authorities riled up! 

Unfortunately, Eulàlia’s freedom didn’t last long. Upon being discovered, the authorities decided not to mess around any longer. She was crucified on an X-shaped cross at once and left there to die. The crucification took place at one of three possible locations around the city: at Pla de la Boqueria, Plaça d’Àngel or Plaça del Pedró; the most popular version points to the Pla de la Boqueria as the most likely place.

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Pla de la Boqueria

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Pla de la Boqueria

When Eulàlia breathed her last breath, her soul left her mouth in the shape of a white dove, which flew up to the heavens.

Her body was then taken down by fellow Christians, with great care, and buried in a secret location: the Santa Maria de les Arenas, now the Santa Maria del Mar. In A.D. 633, Eulàlia was canonized and named patron saint of Barcelona. In A.D. 878, her remains were transferred to what is now the Cathedral; the Cathedral’s official name is the Cathedral of the Holy Cross and Santa Eulàlia. When you enter the Cathedral today, you can visit her crypt.

Festes de Santa Eulàlia 2019

The Santa Eulàlia Festival is packed full of Catalan traditions and events. You will find: castellers (human towers), gegants (giants), correfocs (fire runs), bastoneres (stick dancers), dragons, devils, folk dancing, artisanal fairs and much more!

Festes Santa Eulàlia Poster

Many of the museums and cultural centers around the city will be hosting “Open Doors” to the public in honor of Eulàlia. You can find the full list of those participating here.

Festival begins: Friday, February 8 at 10:00

Festival ends: Tuesday, February 12 at 20:25

If you want to check out this year’s program, you’ll find it here.

With so many different ways to experience Catalan culture at its finest, don’t miss out on an opportunity to celebrate Barcelona’s beloved patroness!

By EMILY BENSON

Photos by ISABEL TROYA

Information gathered from:

20minutos

La Meva Barcelona

Aleteia

Wikipedia

 

Check out @carrersbcn‘s photos on Instagram!

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